I spent today cycling along the coast, through scruffy beach towns not yet geared up for the season. For the first half of the day I passed through each, pausing to wander a bit through the respective Old Town sections.


At the halfway point I met JD, cycling to Bari where I had started the morning. The day before, with a tailwind, he’d cycled 176 km! He asked if I was enjoying the tailwind. It wasn’t until we separated that I realized my cruising speed started to average 25 kph!

I also encountered a cyclist today from Portugal. He spoke only Portuguese, so we didn’t get far. He cycles with a fully-loaded touring bike, towing a fully-loaded trailer, including his dog. Now HE had a vibe of having been on the road a long time. I translated what he said as 4,000 km, but I suspect a much larger number.

JD advised that the rest of the day would include long sections of nothing. Thanks to his advice I passed the first campground by, as JD had tried there, and they had been closed. The time that saved me I promptly lost to the campground he’d stayed at. I wandered about almost an hour before I located someone to point me to a campsite.

I set up camp and went for a swim. The water here is not the clear gorgeous blues and greens on the other side of the Adriatic. Seeking the password for the Wi-Fi, I decided to eat dinner at the campground restaurant. The delay earlier repeated as I tried to get dinner.

I need to decide if tomorrow I will venture into the Gargano National Park. I rest at their foot, and they loom ominously overhead.


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