Last night I connected back up with Bev, and we went out to dinner at a place recommended by both the hostel and her B&B. Unimpressed. We spent dinner discussing the Ćiro (which she also followed) and other cycling-related anecdotes, anxieties, and concerns. Bev is using this short trip as further preparation for a six-month tour!

After dinner we wandered Kotor, looking for a bar she had encountered earlier in the day. Afterwards we walked the city taking photos of green doors (it’s a Bev thing). Kotor is an amazing city, especially at night once all the cruise ships have sailed. Absolutely incredible.

Roads today terrified or awed, and occasionally both. Many long steep climbs in heavy traffic, followed by rapid descents. Repeat.

I stopped in Budva to walk yet another Old Town – the original walled city with narrow paving stone streets and shops tucked in every corner.

When a thunderstorm threatened, I ducked into a convenient monastery for sanctuary. The following storm caught me in the open. The warm weather certainly beats the cold rain in Ireland.

Avoiding using my phone/GPS in the rain, I used my tried-and-true method of finding the ferry in Bar by following the signs that said, “Ferry.”

The last time I had a long ferry ride, I paid extra for a reclining seat. It was right over the engine, and I eventually abandoned my seat to curl up on a couch in the lounge. This time I paid for a basic lounge seat, yet they directed me to a reclining seat. Much like the rest of the trip, the ferry is mostly vacant. The ferry restaurant, lounge, and seating area are ghost towns, with only a few passengers scattered about.

The trip feels like it starts anew.


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